Buying knitting yarns in Turkey is rather different from western European or North American experience.
1. There are few/no written patterns or pretty magazines like Rowan, Rebecca or Phildar to help you visualise what things will look like knitted up.
2. There's rarely an informative label with tension, meterage or weight on it. Dyelots..? This term seems fairly unknown
3. Lots of yarn is sold from cone, weighed and cut when you're ready to pay.
4. Sheep is a regular feature in the Turkish diet, but the bulk of that wool is coarse, suitable for rug and upholstery not for garments. The wool for knitting yarns is often imported from New Zealand and Australia (that came as an enormous surprise for me).
5. Turkey is a major exporter of cotton. So cotton yarns of varying grades is plentiful and very cheap. Pamuk (turkish for cotton) is available mercerised and unmerciserised in hundreds of colours for 5-10 YTL a kilo. That's about $7-$15 for 2.2 pounds of yarn. The other good buy is mohair, which is labelled as Angora (as in angora goat, not rabbit). Look for kid mohair, it's also very inexpensive for good quality. If you happen to like lurid novelty yarns (made in synthetic) in flourescencing colours, you'll be in heaven.
6. Turkish women perfer their yarns in bright colours. They also like a bit of sparkled plied in, to make the yarn more interesting. Almost all women knit. It is often cheaper to buy the yarn and make a sweater. In fact, the stores will ply together the yarn for you.
7. Synthetic yarns are prevalent. It's cheap and easier to care for. Istanbul is a very dusty city, so I would imagine things need to be washed frequently. Almost all yarns had some quantity of acrylic. Most were 100% acrylic.
8. Most yarn shops were run by men, who did not speak English. They were however, very nice and helpful to me, once they realised that I came in to buy yarn and not ask for directions. They also treated me like a slightly eccentric (or demented) maiden aunt who needed cajoling. Have you ever tried haggling for yarn in English with a shopkeeper that only spoke Turkish? Yes, I did get some money off, but it was hard work and I'm sure that they only gave me some money to get rid of me.
To find yarn you had to go to the bazaar, so we did, heading over towards the newly restored Kizlaragasi Han Bazaar. We found yarn in the bazaar where the locals were shopping, just off the tourist track. The Kizlaragasi Han Bazaar was much harder to find but lovely too. This was my first yarn buying experience, so the 8 points listed above was still not formed. Point 8 is particularly relevant. The woman pointed out some angora to me and it was so harsh... well it was angora mohair not angora as in rabbit. I was looking for wools and also shocked by the lurid colours. Amelia would had either left the shop in shock or keeled over from neon colour overload.
Once they realised that I wanted to buy yarn and wasn't there to just ask for instructions to the nearest tourist attraction, they turned on the charm and attempted to bring everything in the shop to show me their wares.
How does one mime cotton to a Turkish man? It's not like asking is something is beef or mutton with the moo-ing and baa-ing sounds. I do a mean moo, if you were wondering.
So much yarn... so much 100% acrylic with sparkly bits.
Yes, I bought something. I think that it's a loosely spun merciserised cotton. No idea on the tension, meterage, but the woman assured me that 7 balls was enough. (Conversation lasted 15 minutes with Turkish and miming gestures). She was so pleased to hear that I knitted and that I was there to look for yarn. Her son is in the background. Poor lad, humped bags of stuff to find me 7 balls in the same colour.... no idea about dyelots though.
Here's a another picture of a satified customer.
Kürkçü Han (Furrier Han) in Mahmutpaşa Street, between the Spice Bazaar and the Grand Bazaar, is a kntter's haven. This is the place that the Istanbul local women come to find the materials for their next projects.
You would not find this place if you didn't know where it was. You pass through here and into a courtyard. (I had trouble finding it too, after ducking into several courtyards until a Turkish shopkeeper kindly pointed out the way. See point 8, from above)
There was nothing marking this to be a yarn courtyard. you knew that you were close because you see haberdashery shops and bead shops but nothing outside the passageway indicated that this was going to be yarn central.
But once you were inside the passage, it was clearly a knitter's haven
Kürkçü Han is a stone building located on the right while climbing Mahmutpaşa Street from Mısır Çarşısı (Spice Bazaar). This building is as old as the Kapalıçarşı (Covered Market, aka Grand Bazaar) and was once built as accommodation for furriers. It is a two-story complex located around a large garden housing many shops These shops sell everything from
home textiles (towels, bed sheets, curtains), lingerie to wool. The latest yarns are on the stands at very low prices (not just by western standards but also Turkish standard).
Naturally, I left after a few purchases were made.
You can get many of the Kartopu yarns here in Brooklyn at T&D Carpet,3155 Coney Island Avenue. Prices range from $1.50 to $7.00 for a 100 gr.ball. My 22 year old daugter loves the neon colors.
Posted by: knitnerd at April 16, 2006 11:01 PMhi...what do you mean by Persian Market, i'm a little confused. Everything here is in Turkey so why do you call it a Persian Market? Persian means Persia hence Iran. nice yarn
Posted by: shee at March 14, 2006 06:59 AMistanbulu gezmişsiniz alışverişde en uygun yerleri bulmuşsunuz kürkçü han ve iplikciler... siteniz çok güzel tebrikler gülay
Posted by: gülay at November 29, 2005 01:04 PMOn the picture where you said 'See what I mean about the bright colours' I thought you were going to say that was what you had bought seeing as you had just said that a few purchases had been made! A.x
Posted by: Amelia at October 22, 2005 08:11 AMPolly,
Wonderful posts, makes me miss Istanbul even more! I only wish you had been there last year... I was there for several weeks all i all and never found anything remotely looking like yarn...
I agree that the colours are a bit much though!
Thanks for the tour of Turkey and Turkish yarn! Amazing... I love what you brought back with you. I might be going to Turkey in the next few years because my cousins husbands family is buying a house there.. So, we have a place to stay at least :)
Posted by: Dani at October 20, 2005 12:49 AMImpressive buying yarn in a country where you don't know the language. My 10 and 11 yos would be in heaven with all the bright colors.
Posted by: Anmiryam at October 19, 2005 08:52 PMWow, a Turkish yarn crawl, how cool is that?
Posted by: Tracy at October 19, 2005 04:21 PMSome of that yarn sure is bright. I have had Istanbul on my list of places to go for ages to buy lots of fabric, now I can add yarn to my list as well!
Posted by: tacha at October 19, 2005 08:18 AMI have always imagined that Turkey would have a lot of cotton yarn as seen in the labels.
With your fascinating pictures I now have a real picture in mind! Thanks Polly!
Good job- I can't even find the nerve to haggle in English, let alone in a foreign country where they don't speak my language!
Posted by: Jenn at October 19, 2005 02:36 AMGosh, weren't you daring haggling for yarn with the Turkish men? Well done on finding the yarn shops to start with, haven't you got the best knitters nose for yarn.
There were some very bright cones there. but somehow they seemed to be just right for the bright Turkish sun. I just love the yarns you have on display in your beautiful dish.
Posted by: Louise at October 18, 2005 11:59 PMPolly, you are so intrepid. Can't believe you found the yarn market. I love the bright cottons (think of the blankets!!).
I did feel a pang for poor James. xoxo Kay
Posted by: Kay at October 18, 2005 08:23 PMThanks for this knitter's eye view of Turkey! Can't wait to see what lovelies you make from your Turkish souvenirs, Polly!
Posted by: Debi at October 18, 2005 07:29 PMLoved the review of turkey, I feel like I've been on a mini-trip! Looks like a lot of fun, can't wait to see what beautiful creations you whip up from your purchases.
Posted by: Rebekah at October 18, 2005 06:53 PMSmashing post, Polly, as usual - were you a journalist in another life? Did you see any ready-made knitteds for sale? When we were there (different part of Turkey) there were piles and piles of gloves, mittens and those Turkish socks with odd pointed toes for sale, done in very harsh rough wool, or garish acrylics.
Posted by: Jill at October 18, 2005 05:57 PMThose are wonderful pictures. I bet that was such a wonderful experience. Thanks for sharing.
Posted by: Robyn at October 18, 2005 05:22 PMThank you for your yarn tour of Turkey. I'm especially partial to bright colors with a little bit of glitz, so I imagine I could have really overspent. Now I'll have to add Turkey to my list of future vacation spots.
Posted by: Hollis at October 18, 2005 03:47 PMfabulous photos Polly. I won't be taking Chris to Turkey anytime soon, with all of those bright colours all over the place, he'd be in heaven.
Dawn:)
Posted by: dawn at October 18, 2005 03:44 PMI love all the pictures you took! How interesting to find out that they knit so much there. And the bright colors are too fun...hehe.
Posted by: Michelle at October 18, 2005 03:41 PMFabulous! Thanks for sharing this with us.
Posted by: Mary Beth at October 18, 2005 02:31 PMThanks for the lvirtual travel trip this morning!! Looks like it was big fun.
Posted by: Kim at October 18, 2005 02:17 PMOooh, I think you managed to put us in Turkey with you for awhile! I am going to read this over a couple more times - very interesting tidbits about your experience. Hmm, a new nickname for you, Polly the Knitters' PI (private investigator).
That looks like crystal palace's kid merino in the bowl on the right. Lovely yarn buys. Hope they turn out to knit up well. Thanks for sharing.
Posted by: Terry at October 18, 2005 02:10 PMWOW!!
Too bad I wasn't a knitter when I was there.....
thank you! i might be going to Istanbul in April, and this will be a much welcome addition to my travel guides :)
Posted by: Kelly at October 18, 2005 01:39 PMwow! nice trip i read carfully what you said no much woman but men in shop in turkey this normal woman need t stay at home business is for men only the most time.yes the most yarn is in acryl unfortunatly it is the same in iran.mi sister in law that come from sidney australia sait that all the wool goes in turkey
and back in ball in australia with made in turkey...
Fascinating!! Thank you so much - you did such an awesome job of describing everything and providing great pictures that I nearly feel like I was there with you. How exciting to be able to take trips like that without going overseas! :)
Posted by: Laura at October 18, 2005 12:57 PMI'm in awe at your ability to track down a yarn shop. That's impressive!
Posted by: Linda at October 18, 2005 12:23 PMWhat an intrepid knitter you are! You are my hero!!
Posted by: Wendy at October 18, 2005 12:16 PMThat was an amazing travelogue - thank you!
Posted by: AmyP at October 18, 2005 11:34 AMWhat an interesting post! A great taster of your visit.
Posted by: Kathleen at October 18, 2005 11:19 AMNo yarn escapes you does it? I think I quite like the idea of bartering for wool, must try that next time I stop at John Lewis ;)
Posted by: Tracy at October 18, 2005 11:01 AMVery interesting post Polly. Lovely pictures of those bright colours.
Posted by: Mary at October 18, 2005 10:35 AMGreat post! I like what you bought, particularly the variegated yarn (mohair?) in burgundy, fawn and bottle green.
Posted by: Jess at October 18, 2005 10:15 AMWhat a delightful and colourful adventure! Thanks for sharing, I loved reading about it.
Posted by: lyn at October 18, 2005 10:04 AMThanks for the virtual tour and the write-up. It was a fun & enlightening read.
Posted by: erin at October 18, 2005 09:24 AMWhat an amazing find, Polly! I don't know how you managed to make your way around Turkey and finding all those yarn stores. Sounds like it was a knitter's heaven!
celia
Posted by: celia at October 18, 2005 07:09 AMFantastic posting Polly! I must admit I like the look of some of those brightly coloured cones ;-)
Posted by: Jacinta at October 18, 2005 06:41 AM